Well, by the ID photos in Charlton, the tilt of the crown and overlap with the forehead tell me it's an Obv 3. If you want it to be a 4, then fine; it's your coin.

I'll call it an F-15, although wear-wise it's probably a VF-20. Probably decades ago someone cleaned gunk or verdigris around the design elements on the Rev, the date, leaves, and bow at the bottom. It had re-toned, except for where the person took a toothpick or other instrument and tried to remove...

Yes, 30+ or 35 .... they are the same.

VF-30 cleaned, maybe a bit better

Nearly impossible to tell from photos. Is it flat with the field? Recessed? raised? dirt/grime? Who knows.? You have it in hand. What does it look like?

I would say a dryer coin. Look in the archives here and CCF forums.

Here's a past thread on CCF, but there are many more threads and some look just like yours:

https://www.coincommunity.com/forum/top ... _ID=143863

With it being so reflective and shiny, I thought that someone had lacquered it. Then another coin got on top of the semi-wet lacquer and left those marks on the wet surface.

Agree, it's not a doubled die and that it's machine doubling (MD). A couple of the letters may also have some die deterioration doubling as the die wore and the edges of the design in the die wore away. It's not a variety and adds nothing to the value and may actually detract from it. Here's a good ...

I think a partially filled die. There is a small possibility that the bottom of the matrix that makes the dies broke off, but I doubt it.

Your coin is ungradable because of whatever got on the coin. Your coin shows good signs of some wear, based on the leaf tips and crown. Wearwise, I'd say VF-30 or so, but it was soaked or scrubbed with something very caustic that completely bleached out the normal color. Keep it as an oddity, but no...

The places on the coin that have just a little bit of offset doubling are due, as coin guy says, to machine/mechanical doubling. However the "8" in the date has been repunched by hand, maybe to correct a flaw. Here's a link to some different types of common doubling and also click on the links at th...

I'm sending you a link that has some great information for digesting. At the bottom are 3 additional links so you can see what is being discussed. None of your digits are repunched; they just have anomalies caused by the manufacture/striking. I really like your coin with the huge offsets: http://dou...

You have an 1882 Obverse 2/1, type 2. There were 3 types/varieties of the 2/1's and the type 2 has the denticles doubled from the I in Vicky to the N in Canada. The mint was still using old 1876 Obverse die punches for some of the strikes for finishing the dies, even though the '82 dies were almost ...

It could be used to level a table, under one of the legs.

Go through the archives on the '32. This has been talked about a great deal from different submitters. If the 9/3 gap and the 3/2 gap are the same width as the 2 to the leaf, it's a near2. On a far 2, the 2-gap distance is greater than the 3-2 gap and the 9-3 and 3-2 gaps are not the same. That's a ...